Furby cleaning

1. Skinning a Furby.

Before we begin any cleaning or repairs, it's imporant to know how to open your Furby up. Because not all Furbys are built equal, there is no one-size-fits-all guide for skinning all generations of Furby. Some models are much more difficult to take apart than others or are more fragile.

The following chart will help you understand the scope of disassembling any given Furby, and the associated risks so you can plan ahead. Difficulty will denote what skill level is recommended for a given disassembly, and destructive referrs to any permanent damage that will happen as a result of disassembly. As always, Disassemble at your own risk. also I just started writing this so if theres no images here its not done yet lol

Model	Difficulty	Destructive?	Notes:
1998/Babies/Gizmo	Very Easy	No	These are the easiest to disassemble. Anyone with the tools could do it. All 3 of these are built nearly identically to one another.
Shelby	Advanced	No	Shelby is not difficult to shuck, but has lots of small, delicate parts compared to Furby and requires more patience and I only recommend those with prior experience attempt this.
2005, Funky, 05 Babies	Hard	Yes	These will fall apart if you attempt to skin them no matter what due to aged, brittle plastic. I do not recommend anyone of any skill level to attempt this on high value 05s or on a whim. 05 Babies will likely be very difficult if not impossible to reassemble after a teardown.
2012, Boom	Advanced	Partially	The plastic clips attaching their fur to the body are often frail and easily breakable. There is a cable within a plush pouch attached to the fur so being delicate is important, generally you have to unplug the wire or otherwise free it from the skin which can become destructive if you are not mindful.
Connect	Advanced	Partially	These are rather frail in my opinion and are easily damaged by short drops or falls so doing this at a desk or table is ideal. Very similar process to skinning a 2012 but there are more free floating wires under the skin.
2023, Vibes, DJ	??	??	The 2023 line is still very recent and has new additions released fairly often. They are all built very differently and there are not a lot of resources on taking them apart yet. From what I've gleamed it seems fairly similar to 2012s and Connects.

Because I don't have the bandwidth to skin and clean every model and Friend of Furby just to take pictures of the process, especially since numerous others have already made guides on skinning, I will now link some preexisting guides for each model other creators in the community have made that I feel aptly capture the process. Please direct any and all thanks to them for documenting the process for us all!

1998 Furby skinning guide by FurbyTech (also applies to Babies and Gizmo)

Shelby skinning guide by FurbyTech

2005 skinning guide by FurbyTech (Also applies to Funky Furbys,) and, 2005 Baby skinning guide by Furby Queen

2012/Boom skinning by Retro Furby

Currently, I haven't been able to find guides for skinning Connects, 2023s, DJ Furby, or Furby Vibes yet. If you know of one, or have one yourself feel free to submit it for me to share here! :)

The rest of this guide will primarily be about 1998 Furbys, but any of the cleaning tips mentioned here should also apply to other generations of Furby (as well as Shelby, and other Friends of Furby.) And can also be used as general cleaning tips for plush in general or electronics in general. So just know that this is written as if we are taking apart an adult 98!.

This guide will focus on what I find to be best practice for cleaning Furbys based on years of experience with toy restoration. As a quick note: Any time I say "1998", just know this includes Furby Babies and Gizmo.

2. Pelt cleaning.

When cleaning a Furbys pelt great care must be taken not to damage the fibres of the fur. Furby pelts are made of plastic, meaning they can be damaged by harsh chemicals and heat PERMANENTLY.

When choosing a detergent or cleaner, you should be mindful of what it is intended to do. Avoid bleach and other harsh chemicals as they are often caustic and can affect color or degrade plastic. My personal go-to is either a very small amount of laundry soap (extremely dilute, you need about a drop or 2); or dish soap. Dish soap is often much harsher than clothing detergent. Pretty much any standard detergent will do but I personally suggest avoiding anything advertised as stain removing since the stain removers can often contain bleach. Some detergents can also cause permanent staining, so be sure to spot test before washing (this is also why proper dilution is important!)

Furbys should always be washed in cold water, as hot water can cause stains to set permanently as well as damage their fibers if hot enough. Hot water can also make colors run, bleed or fade. If you want to wash your Furbys in a batch, I recommend you avoid mixing light or white colored Furbys with brightly or darker colored ones, and not wash any Furbys with heavily textured fur, or clothes (like some special editions have) with any other Furby. Additionally, avoid washing heavily stained, dirty, or moldy Furbys with any other Furbys in general; These should always be washed separately. Some colors are also more prone to bleeding or running in general so make an effort to sort you Furby pelts by color.

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Furby pelts should never be washed or dryed in a machine. Washing machines can easily damage their plastic faceplates or rip off their rather delicate felt ears, and the dryer can permanently melt their fur.

To properly wash your Furbys pelt, fill your sink or a container with cold water and a small amount of your chosen soap or detergent. The water should be clear and only slightly soapy looking. If you use too much detergent it can be difficult to rinse out any soap from the pelt fully later, so it's important to only use a small amount as the water will do a lot of the heavy lifting. To begin, gently use your hands to agitate the fabric gently. At this stage, I would also suggest using a soft bristle brush, non abrasive sponge, or a cotton swab to clean the deeper crevices of the plastic faceplate as they can hold onto a lot of dust. You should use rubber gloves for this process especially if you have skin allergies or sensitivities.

Once you feel you have removed as much debris as you possibly can from your Furby, drain the detergent water and refill your sink or container with clean, cold water (do not add more detergent at this stage) And agitate the pelt like previously before allowing it to soak for half an hour. Following this, rinse the pelt under cool tap water until it the water that comes out is clear and no longer feels slick with soap.

If your Furby has significant staining, a strong smell, or appears moldy, you may want to consider a vinegar soak. Soaking the pelt in vinegar is a great way to remove cigarette, mildew, and pet smells and stains as well as helping to disinfect the pelt. The main drawback is that vinegar can cause discoloration, and that it will also, well. Make your Furby smell like vinegar. Note that if your Furby IS actually moldy, it should be washed in hot water regardless of any damage doing so may cause to the pelt since mold can be an active health risk. Isolate moldy Furbys from others in your collection if you cannot immediately wash them to minimize it spreading.

To soak your Furby in vinegar, prepare a separate bath prior to washing, consisting of cool water and a quarter cup to a half cup of standard white kitchen vinegar. Spot test the this bath mixture in a hidden location on the pelt before soaking to make sure it does not discolor the fur fibers. You may want to consider removing the faceplate for this step as vinegar can rarely react with plastic, though it should be fine. If the spot test doesn't cause issue, soak it for 30 minutes to an hour, then rinse thoroughly. You can then follow the above steps for cleaning like normal.

If vinegar doesn't work or is inaccessible for you, I recommend rewashing the pelt multiple times to help remove smells. It will also help to allow it to air out in a well ventilated space for several days prior to washing. It would be best to allow it to air out for a few days before attempting rewashing.

For stubborn stains, hydrogen peroxide can be used to help encourage removal. Do not soak the pelt in peroxide. Best practice is to spot clean the pelt with undiluted peroxide prior to washing. Spraying the affected area is your best bet. Peroxide can also cause discoloration so be mindful.

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Hot tip! If your Furbys pelt is heavily matted or damaged, you can use a slicker brush during the initial washing stage to help brush the fibres out while they soak.This has the added benefit of helping to remove debris from the fur.

Once your pelt is clean, I recommend brushing it smooth as it dries. I personally use a pet slicker brush and very gently use it to comb the fur out, If you are too rough it will pull fur out of the fabric. Also, please don't use a slicker brush previously used on animals (or use a Furby brush on an animal!) Slicker brushes often collect skin oils from dogs and cats and that would negate the point of cleaning your Furbys pelt, and any potential detergent residue might agitate your animal's skin! It's best to have a dedicated brush for your Furby.

Avoid brushing Furbys with specialty fur like Champagnes, Minks, and Crystal Babies roughly to avoid damaging them. Don't use a pet slicker on Furbys with textured fur like Lambs and Curly Babies, a soft bristle brush is better for maintaining their fur.

Do not under any circumstance repelt the Furby while the skin is still wet. Allow the pelt to dry fully for several hours before reattaching it to any electronics. I find it dries faster in well ventilated areas, and if you drape it over something like a soda can or bottle to keep the inside hollow and open.

3. Plastic detailing.

While your Furby's pelt is drying, you may want to clean any plastic parts on your Furby. Generally, this is not needed, but sometimes beaks and eyes can collect a lot of dust or dirt from use.

The ideal way to clean any facial feature is to remove it from the electronic components entirely. You can do this by removing the 2 highlighted screws and removing their support rod. (Process pictured)

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Once removed, they should be washed in soapy water gently, (I suggest dish soap) rinsed and then allowed to dry. It's a very simple process. You should remove eyelashes prior to washing your Furbys eyelids as the glue is likely so old they will fall off anyway. This can help make reattaching them later easier. As a quick aside, black eyelashes are typically more frail and prone to glue failure than white eyelashes, so be more gentle with them.

This can also be done for Shelby shells, 2005 feet, and any other removable plastic parts, such as the shell protecting the 1998 Furbys internals.

For parts that cannot be removed, or if you do not want to remove them; You can use a small, soft bristled toothbrush and clean water to gently scrub away any debris. If you choose to use a toothbrush I do not recommend using soap as it will make removing any soap residue very difficult. This will also work with a cottonbud.

I recommend against using isopropyl alcohol (commonly abbreviated as IPA, and often referred to as rubbing alcohol) to clean ANY plastic components. IPA can often degrade or compromise the chemical structure of some plastics, will strip any paint, and some products labeled as IPA contain acetone which WILL melt plastic. It's best to stick to just water and soap.

Additionally, avoid getting the antennae of Shelbys wet, as they are prone to dryrotting issues and moisture can accelerate and worsen the process.

At this stage, you may also want to consider Retrobriting any yellowed plastic components.

An example of a heavily yellowed Furby, note the white eyelids displaying the original color.

Plastic "yellowing" is a process in which an environmental influence causes a plastic to degrade, usually UV or sun exposure, but heat can also be a trigger. Some plastics will also yellow regardless of heat or uv exposure and will yellow naturally with age. This usually results in a purely cosmetic color change but it can also cause some mixtures of plastic to become brittle.

It's referred to as yellowing primarily because it is most obvious in white or light colored plastic, typically turning them a stark yellow or orange, but plastic of any color can become yellowed. Any plastic part of a Furby can yellow, but faceplates are most commonly affected by uv damage.

Retrobriting is a process where yellowing is reversed using UV (odd, right?) and hydrogen peroxide to create a chemical reaction in the plastic.

An example of blue plastic turning green when yellowed. Note the eyelids retaining the original blue color.

Retrobriting sounds like a miracle cure for improving the cosmetic condition of a Furby, and indeed it is! But it isn't without caveat.

Retrobriting as a process has been found to sometimes accelerate the decay of certain plastics, and is thought to encourage it to become even more brittle. The effects of Retrobriting are not permanent, either, and plastic WILL reyellow with time and UV exposure so care must be taken to store items properly, or find other ways to protect a Retrobrited item. Messing up the process of Retrobriting can also often permanently damage plastics and their color, and because we are creating a chemical reaction intentionally, it can be hazardous if done wrong.

As such, I personally have not Retrobrited any pieces in my collection. In my circumstance, it isn't worth the hassle at the moment and seems like a lot of effort for something that may carry risks that are harder for me to deal with in the future. It definitely can rejuvinate a Furbys appearance so I am not against it, I'm just lazy!

Here are some alternatives to Retrobriting:

Replacing any affected parts. Faceplates, eyelids, eyes, and beak parts can easily be swapped for that of another Furbys.

Repainting affected parts. This method is a great option for those experienced with painting. It not only covers up UV damage, but if done well and with plastic safe paints, should help protect the plastic from further UV damage!

There are pros and cons to Retrobriting or other methods of repairing/hiding UV damage, so make your own decision based on your skillset. You can very easily find numerous guides on Retrobriting as a process online as well, so I recommend researching it on your own time before attempting it.

4. Cleaning electronic components.

Since your Furby is already open, you may want to clean the inside before reassembling it. To do so, you will need to remove any plastic shells protecting the internal mechanisms. Follow the guides linked at the start to figure out how to do this. Make sure your Furby has no batteries in while cleaning it.

While not neccessary, this may be beneficial if your Furby needs repair work done as it helps provide a clean slate for any potential soldering that may need to be done. To clean the inside of your Furby, I recommend using IPA (90% is ideal, but no lower than 70%!) And a microfiber cloth or toothbrush to gently scrub electronic components clean of dust, and optionally canned air to help dislodge dust or debris. this includes:

The battery compartment terminals

The circuitboard

Any visible contacts

The tilt sensor, if it can be easily accessed

Remember to be gentle while cleaning the circuit board, as it contains many small parts such as capacitors that may be dislodged while scrubbing. Be mindful to not get excessive amounts of IPA on any plastic parts such as the gears or plastic base as IPA can weaken plastics. Wipe it dry if it happens!

DO NOT use IPA on the motor or gears of the Furby. IPA is FLAMMABLE and the motor gets hot. IPA will also deteriorate any factory lubricants left on the motor which will contribute to your motor wearing out faster.

You also may want to lubricate your motor and gears after cleaning the inside. This is not something I have ever had to do, but silicone motor lubricants should be ideal. Do not use vegetable oil tempting as that may be, nor other types of oil as they may melt plastic. AVOID WD40 AT ALL COSTS. WD40 IS KNOWN TO MELT PLASTIC AND IS VERY OFTEN ERRONEOUSLY RECOMMENDED FOR FURBY REPAIR.

As a side note: I have never had to use anything other than IPA to clean electronic components, but contact cleaner can also be used to clean metal contacts furby, and people swear by vinegar for rusted parts (vinegar IS caustic, so be sure to remove it thouroughly if it is used.) Additionally, it actually IS safe to get electronic components wet with water as long as they aren't powered on while wet, so if an accident happens pat any moisture off and leave your Furby's electronics in a dry, well ventilated room for a day or two to ensure they are fully dry before powering on.


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Now that you have cleaned your Furby from head to toe, you can now reassemble it. Or; if your Furby doesn't work, you can continue to our next page to learn how to troubleshoot and repair common issues.

Continue to repairs section

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Further reading and sources:

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Last updated: 7/5/26
Originally written: 7/3/26